Visit Bruges on Valentine's Day
Is there anywhere more romantic than the Lake of Lovers in Bruges? A city frozen in its past or an acute awareness of its architectural heritage?
If you are looking for the ultimate romantic destination this Valentine’s Day, visit Bruges. In particular the Lake of Love or Lovers (Minnewater) and the nearby Beguinage.
If Antwerp has its legends, Bruges is not lacking either. And one of the most romantic is linked to the “Minnewater”. Some say that this name comes from the “minnen”, the ancient water spirits who watched over lakes and rivers. But it is above all the story of Minna and Stromberg that has captured the imagination of romantics. Minna’s father, sensing his end was near, sought a husband for his daughter. He chose Horneck, one of his friends, much to the despair of Minna, who was madly in love with Stromberg, a man from another tribe. Some versions depict him as a soldier, others as a farmer. In any case, his social status was too far removed from that desired by Minna’s father.
The tribes were engaged in incessant warfare and Stromberg had to leave the region to follow his army. Minna had no choice but to marry Horneck, however she preferred to flee into the woods. After Stromberg had returned from the war and heard the news, he searched for his beloved. When he finally found her by a stream, she died of exhaustion in his arms. He finally built a dam and buried Minna in the riverbed, which has since been named ‘Minna-Water’, Minna’s Water.
A journey into the past
Celtic spirits or Germanic legends, take your pick. But don’t miss the opportunity to visit this incomparable place. You can enjoy the peace and quiet of the area on one of the benches in the shade of the willow trees, admire the swans and ducks on the lake, hire a horse-drawn carriage to visit the city or treat yourself to a meal in one of the many restaurants in the neighbourhood. The shops offer local specialities: from chocolate to lace and Brugse Zot (the local beer); be warned: whether blonde or brown, this seductive brew is also quite strong.
My favourite route is to turn right immediately after crossing the road from the station. You will walk along the canal, which is already a journey into the past. Especially now, as there is an open-air exhibition celebrating the anniversary of the nearby Beguinage. You can admire paintings and photographs, accompanied by the history of the place.
At the end of the path on the right, you will find the lock and the Powder Tower where the people of Bruges stored their gunpowder. From there you will already have a magnificent view (see photo above) of the city and the Minnewater district. On the other side of the canal you will see a Michelin-starred restaurant that looks like a fairytale castle. And on your left, one of the entrances to the Beguinage; a place conducive to meditation or a stroll with your partner.
From the Beguinage you are just a stone’s throw away from Saint John’s Hospital, which operated from 1150 to 1976. Today it is a museum complex that houses numerous exhibitions: Picasso, Dali, Andy Warhol, etc; the old pharmacy has become a museum of pharmacopoeia. A stone’s throw away the museum of ancient art offers a permanent exhibition of works by Hans Memling, a German painter who was adopted by the city in the 15th century.
The historic centre: frozen by recession, saved by heritage awareness
Bruges owes its astonishing prosperity to a meteorological phenomenon. During the 11th century two terrible tidal waves carved a breach in the land. A natural canal was formed, opening up access to the North Sea. The people of Bruges quickly realised the value of this waterway and transformed the natural river into an artificial canal.
This canal enabled trade with England, from where they imported wool that they wove and sold at a high price, but also with the Hanseatic League and Baltic trade, and with Spain and Italy via the Mediterranean. It was in Bruges that the Medici, Tuscan bankers, opened their first branch. It was also in Bruges that a family of hoteliers, the De Beurs, began trading currencies and gave rise to what is still known today as “the stock exchange”.
However, in the 16th century two major events froze the city as if in a glacis for a long winter:
the silting up of the canal: the people of Bruges, eager for quick profits, neglected the maintenance of the canal. Little by little they lost access to the sea.
The wrath of Emperor Maximilian: the latter had increased certain taxes; when he visited the city the inhabitants simply kidnapped him and locked him up to force him to abolish the tax. Upon his release, the emperor not only called the people of Bruges ‘Zot’, meaning madmen - hence the name of the local beer, Brugse Zot. But, more importantly, he redirected all maritime trade to Antwerp.
For at least two centuries the city survived as best it could; there was no innovation. The face of the city remained unchanged, until lace brought back some of the city’s former prosperity. In the 20th century, Bruges also became an important industrial centre, but this period of austerity froze the centre of Bruges in a postcard world. It is no coincidence that Georges Rodenbach, in 1892, titled his novel ‘Bruges, the Dead City’.
Today the municipal and regional authorities have understood how they can benefit from this medieval layout. Tourism has become an additional economic resource for the city. So much so that mass tourism now threatens these relics of the past.
A city to savour at a pedestrian’s pace
But for now you can visit these exceptionally well-preserved sites at your own pace. There’s nothing like a walking tour of the city centre. You can explore the cathedral, of course The Gruuthuse and Groeninghe museums, which house a wealth of Flemish painting masterpieces. Don’t miss the Basilica of the Holy Blood either. Whether you are religious or not, you will undoubtedly be impressed by its two styles – Romanesque and Gothic – and its unique interior: a wooden ceiling, colourful colonnades reminiscent of a Byzantine basilica, and exceptional wall decorations. Everything here is worth seeing and is a treat for the eyes in an unforgettable way.
Has this article caught your interest? Contact us for a tailor-made tour proposal. Whether you are tempted by a romantic stroll or an artistic or architectural exploration, we will offer you a personalised and unforgettable itinerary.